Champagne and Other 'Champagnes'

In just a few short days, 2010 will be here as the Old Year will replace the New. Typically, we celebrate this changing of the guard with kisses at midnight and the wines that sparkle. But as both Miguel Cervantes and Robert Frost once remarked, all that glitters is not gold, and if we think of wine, the same can almost also be said: all that sparkles is not Champagne.

TRADITIONAL CHAMPAGNE AND THE TRADITIONAL METHOD

For as long as I’ve known, Champagne will always be the by-word for sparkling wines the way that Kleenex has become synonymous with facial tissue. It’s here to stay. EU laws states that a wine must be from Champagne, in Northern France for it to be sold as Champagne. But when people say they are drinking Champagne when it's actually sparkling wine, they’re actually not that far off the mark.

Champagne, like many other sparkling wines is made using the traditional method (or méthod champenoise). The steps are as follows:

FIRST FERMENTATION: like every other wine, the producer has to make a still wine. So there's a harvest (in Champagne, there are three main varieties used: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay), the varieties ferment separately and wine is made. 

BLENDING:Each Champagne house has its own distinct style and taste so the blender will  work accordingly, aiming to stay consistent with the brand (some use just a bit of Pinot Meunier, the majority of the blend being Pinot Noir and Chardonnay).

Typically, the different wines will be non-vintage, meaning the wines for Champagne can be from any number of years. (If the vintage is stated, the wine must be 100% from that year.) Other things to keep in mind:

Blanc de Blanc – a wine made from white grapes only (i.e. just Chardonnay).

Blanc de Noirs – a white wine made from red grapes (i.e. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier).

Veuve Cliquot - famous Champagne House - example of vintage Champagne

SECOND FERMENTATION: Before bottling, a small amount of liquer de tirage (a wine containing sugar, yeast nutrients and a clarifying agent) will be added, setting off the second fermentation in the bottle, helping to get that spark(le) going. A temporary seal is then used as a closure and the wines are laid to rest horizontally.

In Champagne, the cellars where the bottles are placed are traditionally fairly cold - 
EQUATION : lower temperature equals slower fermentation equals complexity of the flavours.

The yeasts in the bottle work and eat away at the sugar, creating three important things: alcohol, CO2, and a final deposit (wait: why is the deposit important? wait and see).

While the wine slowly ferments, the gas is unable to escape from the bottle and slowly dissolves into the wine, thus giving us the bubbles when we pop the cork.

MATURATION: As the dead yeast cells break down and their enzymes interact with the wine (a process called yeast autolysis), the wine takes on new characteristics and the result is a ‘bready, biscuit, toasty’ taste. This is because Non-vintage Champagne has to be aged a minimum of 15 months and vintage, at least thee years giving the dead yeast cells time to intermingle with the other flavours of the wine.

RIDDLING: So now we have this wine with a deposit in it. How do we get rid of it?

Riddling is the answer. The bottle has been lying horizontally (sur latte) with the deposit on the side in a rack called a pupitre. The holes in the pupitre allows for the bottle to be placed at different angles. Over time, a skilled remueur (or I guess Riddler… if you wanted to be silly) will come along and skillfully, gradually, every so carefully give each bottle a gentle shake and twist and incline the bottle toward the vertical position.                                                            Pupitres in Champagne wine cellar

DISGORGEMENT: We’re almost done. Almost there.

Once this sediment has slid towards the cork and the bottle is nearly vertical, the neck of the bottle is frozen in a brine solution. From there, the bottles are placed upright on a conveyor belt, the ice holding the solid solution. The temporary cork is removed, the plug of ice with the deposit is ejected under pressure.

DOSAGE: Of course during the disgorgement stage, some wine is lost. As I mentioned, each Champagne house is different and some want their wines sweeter than others. It is fair to say, the majority of Champagne is dry (it used to be sweet, the Russian Tzars drank sweet Champagne by the bucket-load) but during the dosage stage, the kind of wine used to top up the bottle can be high in sugar. Here are a few terms to consider when buying Champagne:

Brut Nature – absolutely dry (as dry as dry can be).

Extra Brut – very dry

Brut – very dry to reasonably dry

Extra Sec or Extra Dry – off-dry to medium dry (just a bit of sweet in other words).

Sec/Dry/Secco/Seco/Trocken – medium dry (a bit more sweet)

Demi-Sec/Semi-Dulce/Abbocato/Halbtrocken – a bit on the sweet

Doux/Sweet/Dolce/Dulce/Doce – really sweet…lush…

WHEN IT’S NOT CHAMPAGNE, IT MIGHT BE…

Crémant – besides Champagne, other French regions such as Burgundy, Alsace and the Loire also make traditional method sparkling wine. On the label you’ll often see Crémant de Bourgogne, etc… These wines can be made with other white wines such as Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Chenin Blanc.

Cava – Spanish sparkling wine is perhaps the closest you can get to the real thing (I swear by Cava and love it and some wine lovers can distinguish between them). The majority of the wine comes from the vineyards of Penedés in Catalonia (northeast Spain), the wine can be produced in other regions such as Rioja and Navarra.

For Cava to be truly Cava, it must spend a minimum of nine months in bottle before disgorgement (also the cork must have a four-pointed star on its base). It’s dry, easy to drink, low in acid and very similar to Champagne with that bready, yeasty taste. The main grapes, however are different and include Maccabeo (aka, Viura in Rioja), Xarel-lo and Parellada. Some producers are also using Chardonnay but unlike Champagne, Cava is rarely made for aging. 

New World – outside Europe, you can find some excellent sparkling wines made in the traditional method in New Zealand, California, Australia and South America. But you have to keep an eye out for the real deal. Some New World wines are made using other methods (Tank, Carbonation) and won’t have the same charisma and characteristics of Champagne. Be cautious and look for labels that explain the method (i.e. Made Using the Traditional Method, etc..).

Read more...

The Cheap and the Cheerful for Christmas - Ontario Wines

Earlier in the month I recommended a few budget-friendly international wines. Today I'm going to devote an entry to some Ontario wines.

First things first, if you didn't get a chance to read Monique Beech's articles in the St.Catharines' Standard about the 'Cellared in Canada' wines then I have to say check the link. I know Jackson Triggs and Peller  Estates both have cheap wines but unless they're VQA (Vintner's Quality Alliance) they're not a 100% percent Canadian. If you want to support Canada, you have to go the wineries or the VQA section at the LCBO.

But a lot of complaints I hear from friends and contacts is that Ontario wines are expensive. Compared to a cheap Chilean or Spanish wine, yes, they're not typically nine dollars but the thing is these countries have a lot more acreage devoted to vine land.

Ontario and especially British Columbia's wine regions are as far north as you're going to get in North American when it comes to grape growing. In order for the vine to flourish, it needs four seasons. In places like Brazil, there can be numerous harvests but because the vine hasn't experienced a dormancy period, it's very much close to impossible to produce a decent wine (unless you're high up in the mountains).

I am a firm believer in supporting our local economy (even it means spending $12.00 instead of $10.00...so what...?). Buying Cellared in Canada wines is fine but if you thinking you're doing your patriotic share, it's about the same as shopping at Wal-Mart. You save a few bucks but the corporations just get stronger (and really, when you think of it, do any of these corporations really care about our environment, our communities, let alone their own employees... very few I've seen.)

Ahem.... enough of the political rant... let me put the gloves back on and get back to wine.

SOME OF MY FAVOURITES:

Chateau des Charmes  'Silver Label' 2006 Cabernet VQA

The French-Style chateau on York Rd is hard (extremely hard) to miss. I remember numerous Christmas afternoons passing the stately winery on the way to my aunt's for Christmas dinner. She served the typical fair (yams, buttery mashed potatoes, mouth-watering pork and turkey) along with Ukrainian perogies and cabbage rolls. During dinner, the guys watched sports, beer bottles in hand while the women, swirling their  wine glasses gossiped in the dining area. We kids traditionally got into trouble, usually doing something stupid in the basement (or nearly breaking a window with a bow and arrow - my bad....).

If you're looking for an easy way to support your Ontario wineries, this wine is a must. This wine is medium bodied with notes of seductive, solemn leather, earthy raspberries and black currants with just a zing of green pepper.

Get out of the Cellared in Canada section and buy this red VQA at $9.95!

Pelee Island Gamay/Zweigelt 'Night Glider' VQA

If you bring this wine to a Christmas dinner or party, you might get a few people asking about the crazy bat on the label (it's actually a Southern Flying Squirrel... poor little guy).

Or... the other question: What the *bleep* is Zweigelt?

Well Zweigelt (or Blauer Zweigelt if you're in Central Europe) is one of the most popular Austrian dark-grape varieties. Dr. Zweigelt crossed Blaufräkisch and St-Luarent, combing the bite of the first with earth elegance of the latter.

The grape ripens early and in southwest Ontario, it's not a bad thing. Some experts feel the grape's name is hampered by the originator's difficult to pronounce name (sf-VAI-gelt).

For $10.95 you can get this dark chocolate, black currant and cherry charmer. Ideal with pasta dashes but would be a nice compliment to hearty stew.

Konzelmann 2007 Riesling VQA

I was a networking event earlier in the month (the same one, if you've read my Wine and Food Pairing for the Holidays entry where our MC jokingly said we all needed to check into AA) where myself and several other colleagues shared a bottle Konzelmann's 2007 Riesling.

It's always a bit more expensive in the restaurant (I won't tell you what we paid) but at the LCBO, for $11.95, you can't resist this pearl of a wine. Apricot, apple, hints of honey and light petrol, this wine is a scintillating dance of flavours, structured but sensuous. 

Best of all, the staff at Konzelmann are some of the best I've ever met. Friendly, knowledgeable and the most enthusiastic bunch next to those at Inniskillin. When I first moved back to Ontario after living six years in B.C., I headed over to Konzelmann. I kept coming back.

When the summer season is back in swing, I'll be back there trying the latest.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

I know we had to tighten our spending. It sucks, we're all feeling the pinch. But for those who live in Ontario, it's our home and we make fantastic wines. I'd rather spend $12.00 on a spectacular wine than $9.00 on a passable international. In Ontario, the winemakers here rarely, if ever, make plonk. I think we can be proud of that. 

LINKS

Chateau des Charmes

Pelee Island Winery

Konzelmann Winery

Read more...

A Puccini Pairing - La Bohème and the Wines of France

Back in March of this year, I discovered that Austrian film director Robert Dornhelm had made a movie adaptation of Giacomo Puccini’s La Bohème.

The best part: Rolando Villazon and Anna Netrebko (the 'Golden Couple' - pictured below) played the starring roles.

I watched the preview on YouTube, falling in love with my dear Anna all over again and nearly sobbing (you have to cry… it’s the most painful of love stories ... and I'm a big baby so that doesn't help either).

I searched on-line, I dropped in at Sikora's (I was living out west at the time), one of the greatest classical music stores in Vancouver (let alone Canada), trying to find out if I could get a copy. No dice.Unavailable for the time being.

Then, recently, after moving back to Ontario, Amazon sent me an email, letting me know it was available. I snapped it up and yesterday watched it for the first time.

The only problem: I forgot to bring the wine.

PUCCINI AND WINE

Puccini was Italian down to the bone. He loved his food, his women and his fast cars. But if you look at his most famous operas, most of them take place abroad. Turandot is set in China, Madame Butterfly in Japan with Madame Lescaut, La Bohème and Tabarro all taking place in France. Gianni Schicchi (famous for “Mio Babbino Caro”) and Tosca are perhaps the only ones that truly take place in Italy.

So how do you match wine with a Puccini opera?

In the case of La Bohème I decided to match the region with the opera’s setting, namely Paris. Like I did with my ‘'Verdi and the Wines of Veneto' entry, I am going to give you my best advice on how to pair wine with the scenes and arias of Puccini’s most prized and passionate opera. (Note: I've provided some links to certain arias and duets. These are not scenes from Dornhelm's film version,  however, but here to help give an idea of the music and beauty of Puccini's work. I've also tried to find the best videos featuring both Villazon and Netrebko.)

ACT I

Christmas Eve, Paris, the 1830s, the land of bohemians – poets, philosophers, paintings and writers. Rudolfo and Marcello are living in a garret with their friends, Schaunard and Colline. Rudolfo is trying to write a play while Marcello is painting the Red Sea, hoping the image of the desert will make him feel warm. They set the first few pages of Rudolfo’s play on fire, sizing Colline’s books up for potential fuel.

There’s no more fire in the fireplace, that is until Schaunard shows up with warm goodies, wine and logs to get them toasty again.

For the first half of Act I, I recommend an easy going Chinon or Bourgueil red wine from the Loire Valley. There are numerous ones to try. Cabernet Franc is the main grape (with some Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in for good measure in Chinon) and you can expect deep, delicious raspberries and herbal notes. Considering the first scene takes place in a garret around Christmas, the winter frost haunting the panes, chill your red to give you some impression of what nineteenth century room temperature wine must taste like.

It is also a wine to savour and sip for the best part of Act I:

WHEN MIMI MET RUDOLFO

There’s a knock at the door and who should be there, our tragic seamstress, Mimi. In the darkness, she misplaces her key. On their knees, searching, hands patting the floor, their hands meet.

Now you must prepare yourself. The next three pieces will warm your heart and hopefully, bring cathartic tears to your soul.

There’s Rudolfo’s Che gelida manina in which the poet comments on Mimi’s cold hand, his writing and his life. He tells her there are thieves in her eyes and she has stolen him.

Following this beautiful aria is Mimi’s reply, Si. Mi Chiamono Mimi .  “Yes, they call me Mimi but my real name is Lucia.” She talks about working as seamstress, working with embroidered flowers. When spring comes she’s alone (and when she says this, the music simply soars and as I write this, those cathartic tears are creeping out of my eyes).

Then the deal breaker – these two lonely souls, equally filled with longings and dreams sing together – O Soave fanciulla. Life is here to love and let’s love. Take my arm, come with me, he says. (In the film version, I like how Dornhelm takes them right into the bedroom after this scene – love and consummation at first sight, so to speak).
 Publicity poster for La Boheme - if you love opera, check out Opera Chic's blog

ACT II

Ah, the honey moon stage. Rudolfo introduces Mimi to his friends at Café Momus. The streets are alive. It’s Christmas. The toymaker is selling toys, the parade is on its way.

But poor Marcello. Who should walk into the café but Musetta, his former lover and her latest catch, another sugar daddy, the old codger Alcindoro. Musetta, to inspire jealousy but also to attract attention sings her famous waltz, Quando me'n vo. She tells the crowd of café patrons that she indulges in their furtive glances, she wants to feel empowered by the desires of men. Marcello, broken -hearted suffers silently in his seat.  But all is not lost. Musetta, feigning a foot injury sends Alcindoro off to buy her some new shoes. Marcello rises to the occasion and re-declares his love for her. As for the bill, well the Bohemians can't pay. Musetta tells the waiter to put it on Alcindoro's bill. 

This is a scene for Champagne. The Bohemian are celebrating, they have a little bit of money. Champagne is the great sparkling wine from Northern France, a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. The town of Rheims is the region’s centre.

There are many to chose from and each Champagne House has its different styles – there’s Veuve Cliquot, Mumm, Moët & Chandon and Krug to name the most famous. Considering this is an opera about love, I recommend a rosé Champagne from Moët & Chandon.

ACT III

From Café Momus to a tollgate outside Paris, we’re in the midst of the dark New Year. The holidays are over, the honey moon stage has passed and the two lovers are separated. They fell in love with the illusion of each other. They wanted something, they looked and found it but it wasn’t really enough. The beginning of the act will remind you of the garret of the first act so get a blanket.

Mimi comes looking for Marcello. She needs to talk. Rudolfo is here, he tells her but no, she can’t see him. Why? Well, Mimi explains, he’s afraid of my dying. I’m getting worse.

Mimi leaves, ducks around the corner and listens to Rudolfo and Marcello talk. Mimi gasps, coughs, Rudolfo sees her and the two have a difficult discussion, she wanting to leave, he wanting her to stay (Donde lieta usci).

But it all works out. They’ll love again, the spring is coming, she won’t be alone. Marcello and Musetta have a comical tiff which balances the scene.

Considering the scenery, the snow fall, the fading hope, the plight of these bohemians, I recommend a wine from the south of France. Perhaps a Fitou, a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah or a Minervois (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre). Southern France is right on the Mediterranean. The region gets plenty of sun and with such an ideal climate, the region has become a great ‘wine lake’. The wines tend to be fuller in body, spicy and rich but are also easier for the budget conscious. A nice comfortable alternative to expensive reds from Burgundy and Bordeaux and a reminder of sunnier days.

ACT IV

We’re back in Paris. Rudolfo and Marcello are both happy the spring is here but they don’t have anyone and sing a haunting tune (O Mimi, tu piu non torni). For some reason Mimi has gone off with a Japanese stock broker (it’s not really explained very well in the opera but that’s opera for you).

Colline and Schaunard come in and there’s some playful horsing around. But the joking doesn’t last. Musetta has brought Mimi to them. She isn’t doing well.

This is the end. Their final love duet – Sono andati? Rudolfo prepares for the worst, holding Mimi's cold hand. The friends give the former lovers time to themselves, pawning off possessions to get money for medicine and a doctor.

But it’s too late. Che ha ditto – Mimi’s death, a scene in opera that is incredibly moving but so simple. This isn’t Wagner’s Liebestod, this isn’t Violetta’s final flourish in La Traviata. Death comes in quietly, unnoticed, when Rudolfo’s back is turned. For a brief second we had hoped, we had prayed but this is opera, this is our modern cartharsis.

What wine to drink for such a scene?

I can’t think of any.

At this point I’ll take a glass of Cognac to calm my nerves. Cognac is the third largest vineyard region in France. The grapes are sold to distilleries, fermented into wine, then double-distilled into cognac. Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano) accounts for most of the wine used.

Following distillation, the Cognac is added in Tronçais or Limousin oak for a minimum of two years. The brandy (from the Dutch brandewijn—"burnt wine") mellows and softens and takes on flavours from the wood. You’ll find on Cognac labels the number of years the brandy has been aged - *** or VS (two years), VSOP (four years) and XO (six years).

I can’t think of a better way to recover from such a magnificent and heart-breaking work of genius. I’m going to watch this opera again soon – perhaps on Christmas and with the right wines. 

Read more...